An Experience in the Land of the Unexpected&PNG!
I am a Leytena, a VSO Returned Volunteer in the “land of the unexpected – Papua New Guinea” from May 14, 2007 to Nov. 15, 2008…that’s what people, locals and expats say about PNG.
My placement was at the VSO Management Office, located in a beautiful coastal town called Madang, in one of the 21 provinces in PNG. Like the Philippines, Papua New Guinea, with almost 6 million population, has a tropical climate, located in the pacific region, mostly mountains with coastal lowlands and rolling foothills. However, the people of Melanesian origin, looks different from us …have dark skin and curly hair. Until now they still chew bui (betel nuts), even the children. They got their independence only last Sept. 16, 1975 from the Australian-administered UN trusteeship.
My major task as Gender and Development Adviser (Volunteer) for 18 months was basically to mainstream Gender in all the programme strategies of VSO PNG. Part of the mainstreaming process was to conduct capacity-building training to PMO Staff and Volunteers on Gender and Development such as awareness-raising on Gender issues and integrating Gender in programme processes in the areas of Education, Participation & Governance, Disability, and HIV-AIDS.
Being assigned in the PMO, makes me feel privileged to learn the dynamics of VSO management, its programme processes, and the complexities of its operation and dealings with my co-volunteers from different countries, and the organizations served by VSO PNG. My accommodation was within the Madang Lodge compound, a few minutes ride/walk from the office. I lived alone in my cottage, they call it “bungalow”, alongside with a few VSO Volunteers, and some International Volunteers, as my neighbours. We were blessed with 24-hr security inside a well-fenced compound divided for the lodgers (guests) and Volunteers. The compound has a swimming pool, a restaurant for the guests, sprawling landscaped lawn, and a place for artifacts that reflects their culture.
Feeling homesick, I just watched local tv shows or TFC, walked around the compound, had my first lesson in swimming with co-volunteers, or did yoga sessions with my Indian friends/volunteers. Oftentimes, we socialized with other Filipinos (wantoks) working in Madang. During weekends, my routine was going to the market with my neighbour friend, Nilam, an Indian lady VSO Volunteer, who taught me Indian cuisine. You will not miss Filipino dishes as you’re always invited to attend gatherings (birthdays, welcome, despedida, etc.) complete with lechon, adobo, grilled tuna fish, pancit, “dagmay/ bicol express” on the table, either at home or at the beach.
I had a small religious community with Filipino families who kept my faith stronger and made me feel secure always. They picked us up at the lodge with their own car to attend mass and other social gatherings. My social life was made memorable as I celebrated my first birthday, Christmas (2007), and New Year (2008) in PNG! I didn’t feel lonely when I was with VSO Staff and my co-volunteers because we did enjoy sharing, eating, singing, and dancing amongst us.
During my first few weeks, I was invited to attend a religious activity by new friends (Filipinos). I kept myself busy during weekends attending the Christian Life Program seminar together with locals (catholics). I graduated at the end of the several week-sessions in a formal ceremony as “Handmaid”. This was followed by a weekly prayer meeting of our “cell” composed of Filipino families/couples, singles, etc. sharing our prayers, loneliness, problems, aspirations, and …food! I couldn’t survive for 18 months without them…and God’s protection and guidance. I didn’t have security problems inside my refuge (home) and didn’t get sick of malaria just like the other locals and expats!
Why, PNG is the land of the unexpected? Well, every time a plan or an event is cancelled/not happen, they would always say….”this is the land of the unexpected, hence, just go with whatever happens in your life in PNG…” I came to be flexible with my plans and schedule …to survive my placement!
At first I got furious, frustrated, unhappy, especially with my work, ‘cause sometimes an activity is postponed….or substituted with another activity…or cancelled, with so much dismay! Later, I accepted “partially” this kind of culture with much-needed understanding…and do only the most …and got positive result in the end. I learned their culture and managed to be effective during my short stay in PNG.
My memorable experience in my placement is mostly positive (a hug, praise, or a gift from officemates, co-volunteers and participants), …though at times not good (scare from rascals in the market place, an aggressive solicitation from locals, or see women with bruises/traces of being abused) and being cautioned not to intervene!
During my Gender Orientation to local staff and LGU employees, I observed and got some comments like:
“Men expressing dominance even in their thoughts and desires…they say that its difficult to change attitude and practices because male chauvinism is part of their culture and runs in their bloodstream.”
“Women expressed frustration as they accept gender issues as natural, and part of their tradition and cultural practice.”
However, despite these initial comments from men and even local women, I got some positive response to our gender orientation/mainstreaming, in the end:
Ø Acceptance by locals of gender issues existing in their midst (homes, workplace, and community) is a realization…but total change is beyond their imagination!
Ø Resolutions/commitment to change for the welfare of the family…community…and nation!
Authorities (police) seldom respond positively to these acts of violence, especially if it involves husband and wife, saying it’s a “family issue” that has to be resolved amongst them. In PNG, gender issues have a long way to go….towards its resolution…and a big CHALLENGE indeed!
My job as volunteer, working on Gender, to my standard, was frustrating, at times! I feel not free to advocate openly in public. I was limited due to strong cultural restrictions and …seems not their priority. I feel that Gender advocacy, oftentimes, is only lip service! I confined myself to making training materials and modules for them; and me, doing “acceptable” capacity building exercises, as part of my TOR. I shared my knowledge and skills based on my expertise ….but did I really “change” their lives in so short a time?
My lesson learned: don’t expect too much, be creative with what you want to change or happen.” Life is too short to be taken for granted…and be wasted! Make the most of it…with much determination, local support and God’s help!
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